Gazing across this sceptred isle it is easy to be inspired by the fantastic and varied climbing that can be found. Climbing guides document every route, eliminate, boulder problem and highball on offer, often in incredible detail with colour topos. Sadly one can also get the impression that every last centimetre of this land has already been climbed. Fortunately, this is not quite true, as a spectacular discovery shows.
In the furthest reaches of northern England where Northumberland borders Scotland an ancient climbing haunt was revisited by Graeme Read and Simon Litchfield and a forgotten climbing area has been reborn! Bizzle Crags were first climbed on back in 1899 by the pioneers Tarver and Glover and its North Eastern Chimney was the first documented route on the highest summit in Northumberland!
If you want to know, how climbing developed here in times, why somebody died on a dangerous route and why the potential of this crag stayed for such a long time undeveloped, download the history at the very down of this article.
Simon and Graeme have climbed 15 new routes here across the grades up to E6. So if you fancy some trad climbing on some of the wildest hills in the north of England, you can download the mini guide below. Incidentally this is also the home to Northumberland’s finest ice climb...
More information also at ukclimbing.com!